The process ATM already requires signing a waiver. If you bring a toaster for repair, you first sign that you won’t hold them accountable if the repairer destroys it. What you’re talking about is an expansion of that. They probably would have to mention basic safety precautions but I don’t see that as a show-stopper, at least not in non-litigious parts of the world.
That’s not at odds w/what I’m saying. The hands-off consumers can coexist with hands-on consumers.
I think if you ask them, they will explain a bit too
Yes but that’s ad hoc and generally limited to what I spontaneously bring them.
I’m saying they could get more leverage out of the movement if they say something like: “on date X, we are teaching refrigerator repair in the parking lot. Bring your broken fridge or just yourself.”
But the fact is, not everyone is made out to repair stuff. Some just don’t “see” it, others lack an true interest, and that’s just fine. Bottom line is things get repaid instead of simply wasted and replaced.
Indeed, I’ve noticed many consumers do not take an interest in learning. I have no issue w/that. The goal is only to save appliances from e-waste. But I’m saying they could save more from being wasted by having training sessions too.
10
repair cafes are oriented to “give you fish”, rather than “teach a man to fish”
(self.righttorepair)
I think the big incentive for everything rats do is survival. They know very well when they are not inside my walls and they are outside roaming for food, they are at great risk from predators (like birds and cats). This is why aromatherapy fails. Rats have a highly sensitive sense of smell and so if mint insense or a diffuser of mint oil is running, it’s quite intense for them and is said to be a repellant. But in reality it fails as a repellant because rats will tolerate a lot when the alternative risks death.
I don’t know why my walls are of particular interest, vs the neighbors walls. Maybe the neighbor has a cat. I wonder if I should try running a diffuser with strong odors inside the walls on the off chance that they have a better shelter to choose from. OTOH, I suppose I don’t want moisture from the diffuser accumulating between the walls.
I appreciate the insight. It sounds like no solution then.. and I need to do a major renovation before insulating the roof.
I’ve seen two things that seem wrong to me though:…a) rats don’t move stone. They can destroy mortar but even then only if it’s weak from what I know.
Rat teeth never stop growing. They will scrape and chew through concrete along with anything softer than concrete, like mortar. They cannot get through glass and metal. So one technique for patching a hole is to mix concrete with broken glass. The broken glass will stop them. But if they are determined enough they would just attack the next brick. There are many bricks in the wall.
That’s cheaper than what I already spent on an Arduino and serial adapter to use in fiddling with this problem. I’m surprised there is only one relay on that board.
great tip! That’s something I would need to buy but I often see battery backups for PCs at my local street market which I could probably get cheaply.
I’m trying to get a handle on what VCC and AVCC is. This thread gives some chatter on it but I’m still not correlating this to the TTL port.
They are talking about digital analog conversions with port C (and I think the eeprom serial port i am trying to talk to is port D).
A Bus Pirate would probably be ideal. But I don’t do cloud shopping. Guess I need to see if I can find that sold in a physical shop.
Since the error code possibly implies a drain pump issue, the pressure fill switch would be related. There is continuity across the two pins that are not taking voltage input. When I blow into the hose, the resistence make no change. But I guess it's not a proper test. I think I need to buy a multimeter that has a frequency (Hz) function to see if the frequency changes as the water level fills.
I tested the USB to TTL adapter itself by jumping the TX and RX pins. When I type something into Minicom the character echoes back. I could perhaps try to talk to an Arduino clone (which I have on hand).
When I connect the ground pin of the adapter to the ground pin of the w/m, the TX and RX LEDs light up (either solid or rapid fire). That must be wrong, no? The tx and rx LEDs should flash when data traverses the circuit. If we could imagine that the w/m is transmitting data nonstop, certainly Minicom is not, so at least the TX LED should have stayed unlit. I could have something dodgy going on with my ground line.
37
Help- hacking is my only option; need to talk to a washing machine via serial TTL to reverse self-destruct booby-trap
(lemmy.dbzer0.com)
cross-posted from: https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/post/42322761
My broken 15 y/o w/m has a serial port tracing to an atmega32L chip. I have a USB to TTL adapter which is set for 5v (as opposed to 3.3v) using a jumper. The TX, RX pins are connected to the RX, TX pins of the w/m, respectively. The power supply pins (0v & 5v) are left disconnected.
I ran
minicom -D /dev/ttyUSB0 -b 9600on the PC with the w/m powered off. Minicom seems to default to an “8,N,1” configuration. When I power on the w/m, minicom flashes a popup saying something like “no connection to /dev/ttyUSB0”. This is a bit bizarre because if powering the w/m triggers that popup, obviously there is a connection of some kind.I do not have the service manual for the Beko WMD 26125 T and the mfr “lost” their copy. I have only scraps of service docs for a similar model that were leaked to a shitty manual jailing service. The circuit diagram of these docs label the serial port as “EEPROM” (as pictured). I suspect the ISP port is strictly for flashing (programming) the machine while the serial port is apparently for accessing the storage (to see the error state that is stored and perhaps clear it if I am lucky).
The goal is to confirm that the error code is “5” (my guesswork based on LEDs lit in binary [101]). The ultimate goal is to clear this fucking error off so I can use the machine. All components work when hotwired (motor, pump, inlet valves). I believe the error state is the machine caught in a lie. Normally the error states are cleared by pressing a secret button sequence, which the mfr witholds from the owners so they can charge us hundreds to do simple repairs.
What can I do without help from the manufacturer? Am I left with trying different baud rates and configs? What should I try? The w/m software is obviously a closed source, thus the serial config is kept secret from w/m “owners”.
Anti-repair rumor: manufacturers disable serial ports before shipping to block repair. But that practice may have started after my w/m was made ~15 yrs ago.
14
Help- hacking is my only option; need to talk to a washing machine via serial TTL to reverse self-destruct booby-trap
(lemmy.dbzer0.com)
My broken 15 y/o w/m has a serial port tracing to an atmega32L chip. I have a USB to TTL adapter which is set for 5v (as opposed to 3.3v) using a jumper. The TX, RX pins are connected to the RX, TX pins of the w/m, respectively. The power supply pins (0v & 5v) are left disconnected.
I ran minicom -D /dev/ttyUSB0 -b 9600 on the PC with the w/m
powered off. Minicom seems to default to an “8,N,1”
configuration. When I power on the w/m, minicom flashes a popup
saying something like “no connection to /dev/ttyUSB0”. This is a bit
bizarre because if powering the w/m triggers that popup, obviously
there is a connection of some kind.
I do not have the service manual for the Beko WMD 26125 T and the mfr “lost” their copy. I have only scraps of service docs for a similar model that were leaked to a shitty manual jailing service. The circuit diagram of these docs label the serial port as “EEPROM” (as pictured). I suspect the ISP port is strictly for flashing (programming) the machine while the serial port is apparently for accessing the storage (to see the error state that is stored and perhaps clear it if I am lucky).
The goal is to confirm that the error code is “5” (my guesswork based on LEDs lit in binary [101]). The ultimate goal is to clear this fucking error off so I can use the machine. All components work when hotwired (motor, pump, inlet valves). I believe the error state is the machine caught in a lie. Normally the error states are cleared by pressing a secret button sequence, which the mfr witholds from the owners so they can charge us hundreds to do simple repairs.
What can I do without help from the manufacturer? Am I left with trying different baud rates and configs? What should I try? The w/m software is obviously a closed source, thus the serial config is kept secret from w/m “owners”.
Anti-repair rumor: manufacturers disable serial ports before shipping to block repair. But that practice may have started after my w/m was made ~15 yrs ago.
16
Questions on how to connect a PC to a washing machine (USB→TTL serial) ← UPDATE 2: the serial port has power - but is it functional?
(lemmy.dbzer0.com)
I need to connect a PC to my washing machine. The washing machine has a bank of pins labelled like this:
- 0v
- tx
- rx
- 5v
The microcontroller is an ATmega32L, which has specs for the serial connection as follows:
specs
The Universal Synchronous and Asynchronous serial Receiver and Transmitter (USART) is a
highly flexible serial communication device. The main features are:
• Full Duplex Operation (Independent Serial Receive and Transmit Registers)
• Asynchronous or Synchronous Operation
• Master or Slave Clocked Synchronous Operation
• High Resolution Baud Rate Generator
• Supports Serial Frames with 5, 6, 7, 8, or 9 Data Bits and 1 or 2 Stop Bits
• Odd or Even Parity Generation and Parity Check Supported by Hardware
• Data OverRun Detection
• Framing Error Detection
• Noise Filtering Includes False Start Bit Detection and Digital Low Pass Filter
• Three Separate Interrupts on TX Complete, TX Data Register Empty, and RX Complete
• Multi-processor Communication Mode
• Double Speed Asynchronous Communication Mode
My USB to TTL serial adapter is apparently based on a ch340 chip. It looks almost exactly like the pic I attached, except mine does not have a crystal on it because I think the chip has an embedded clock. The important thing is the pins match my adapter.
My knee-jerk thought was to connect it as follows:
adapter → washing machine PCB
gnd → 0v
rxd → tx
txd → rx
3v3 → (nothing)
5v → 5v ← bad idea?
(with s1 jumped to 5v on the adapter)
Someone told me I should not connect 5v to 5v. I was assuming one connection needed 5v and the other supplied it, but I was told they are both supplying 5v, but not perfectly 5v, so the difference will strain something and cause damage.
So how should I hook this up?
update (I’m stuffed?)
I heard washing machine manufacturers often sabotage the serial ports before shipping as an anti-repair tactic. I thought my old machine might pre-date that practice, but I might be wrong. I metered TX voltage against 0v using a crappy cheap DMM. Results:
0.01, 0.00, 0.01, 0.00, 0.01, 0.00, 0.01, 0.00, … etc, every second or so.
Looked encouraging, as if there is activity. Then I metered 0v against 5v:
~~0.01, 0.00, 0.01, 0.00, 0.01, 0.00, 0.01, 0.00, … etc, every second or so.
Yikes. I was expecting that to read a steady 5v. Due to bad wiring in the house, I think that is just noise on the ground wire. And apparently the serial port is dead.
I had the two 5v lines connected to each other for a while, so it’s possible I damaged it, if not the manufacturer.~~
Update 2: I have 5v, so the port may work
It turns out I had a bad alligator clip, so of course I got a flat reading. The 5v pin on the serial port gives 5v. Thus I might have a live port. Now how do I use it?
https://www.repairtogether.org/ is involved and there are links that give locations and times, though I don’t have it at the moment.