Even if this was real, which it wasn't, mentioning a fancy and expensive sandwich is probably not gonna be a problem just as long as you talk about what you love about the sandwich rather than how expensive it is.
It's journalism anyways, people are gonna be used to having to hang out with rich assholes.
Also took a look at the article itself and he thinks doing right wing whataboutism and "this superficially sounds like this other thing" type shit was brave internal truthtelling at NYT.
https://web.archive.org/web/20240226125852/https://www.theatlantic.com/ideas/archive/2024/02/tom-cotton-new-york-times/677546/
Unpaywalled archive.