Why are the contents of that sack shaping it into what looks like a nutsack? Are there, like, two soccer balls in there?
I have 12,000m².
Okay, so just for perspective this is 1.2ha, or 3ac, or 130,000ft².
99.9% of all homeowners don’t have properties that exceed 0.10ha, or 0.25ac. That’s 1,011m², or 10,890ft².
Or, in other words, even ignoring the footprint of any home, you are working with 12× the amount of land (at minimum!) that nearly everyone else in Canada or America is generally going to have access to.
You are so ridiculously beyond the intended target audience that your example is beyond irrelevant.
Exactly. And when you look at warming trends, we just went completely off the reservation, BEYOND the worst-case-scenario path. Humanity and science are very much in uncharted territory at this moment, and indications are that we will get shockingly close to +3℃ by about 2035… yes, we are now seeing an unprecedented and terrifying acceleration in warming.
So what does +3℃ entail?
Think lethally high wet bulb temperatures striking most regions between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn, where 4B people live. Not constantly lethal wet bulb temps, but frequently enough and for long enough that it becomes a “migrate or die” proposition. For FOUR BILLION people.
Think chaotic weather, bringing either too much or too little precipitation to the entire planet, when over 80% of all agriculture is absolutely dependent on getting the correct amount of rainfall at the right time. Extremely conservative projections are seeing up to 2B - one quarter of the world’s population - starving to death before 2040. And that’s just in the equatorial belts, where food insecurity is highest.
And those are just two of the high notes. We have additional calamities that have become foregone conclusions, such as the collapse of the AMOC - with a “most likely” date by the 2050s - that will plunge most of Northern Europe into a deep freeze and play additional havoc with weather around the planet as it whiplashes into a “new normal” over a decade or three.
I thought that most of the plunge of modern civilization would occur after I die of old age. Even with a functional healthcare system I will be lucky to make it to 2045, much less later. But with America in the active process of collapsing, and threatening to export it’s madness and chaos to other countries like Canada, it looks like I’ll have a front-row seat after all.
The MacOS link for Iridium Browser goes straight to a 404.
Anyone have a direct link to the latest DMG?
Mac OS link for Iridium Browser goes to a 404.
Anyone have a direct link to the latest DMG?
Then it was "find a cheap source of hay".
Many hay farmers will sell spoiled hay (unfit for animal consumption) for 50-25% of what you would pay for clean hay. Get evangelical about permaculture and the Ruth Stout method and some will just let you have spoiled hay for free.
Stables will frequently give spoiled hay away for free, except here you need to fork it up and pack it off by yourself, it won’t be baled for your convenience. Plus, a lot of bedding wasn’t meant to be eaten by the animals in the first place, and comes with embedded manure.
Remember, spoiled hay is spoiled. it’s not fit for feeding animals, and it’s not gonna be displayed in the Smithsonian as an example of premium hay. Many places that produce or consume hay just want to get rid of it, as it’s wholly undesirable for their main operations and just gets in the way.
Then you need a method to spread hay- which ain't easy.
Gesundheit? If you are complaining about spreading hay - and I can cover my existing 185m² in a single afternoon with ease - then gardening in general is not going to be up your alley. Spreading hay is not supposed to be difficult or laborious. If it’s baled, unbale it and use your hands to break off chunks and crush it to floof it up and simply drop it in place. If it isn’t baled, get a fork, spear the hay, walk over to the garden with the fork full, then just shake the fork to loosen the clumps and let them fall.
Like, you are doing this while standing upright, some time between October and March, long before the first plant gets planted. If your plants are already in the ground, you’re doing it the hard and needlessly difficult way.
You are starting way behind here, but I strongly recommend you hit up YouTube to get the basics on the Ruth Stout method and the Hügelkultur method.
I have modified both in the following ways:
First, I stripped away all topsoil. Whether you use or dispose of yours will depend on the availability of good topsoil in your area, and how good the current topsoil actually is. Then I dug down to provide myself with about 50cm (2-3ft) of vertical space to work with (accounting for the maximum height of the final soil level that I don’t want to exceed). If you aren’t doing this near a foundation, or you can still rework the soil to slope away from any foundation, you might be able to ignore this.
For the Hügelkultur method, I went with a flat layout instead of creating humps, and I used wood chips instead of logs and branches. I was aiming for a dense woody later that is laid down about a foot thick, and has about 8-12 inches of soil on top of it. This is meant far more as a decomposing layer that holds onto moisture, as I am in an area with sand and rocks further down that water just drains straight through. Bedrock might have this method as a good idea as well, just lay down an inch or two of sand before you put down the wood chips as a way of water running off if it gets saturated. And if possible, pack down the chips using a powered soil compactor, so you minimize the subsidence as the wood decomposes.
Once the topsoil is down, I finish the soil itself by bringing in several tons of horse manure, and rototilling it in. Horse manure because it doesn’t “burn” roots like steer/cow manure does. This is also why I went with an 8-12in layer of soil - so there is no chance of the rototiller reaching the wood chips. Also: June bugs and other root-sucking grubs love horse manure, be sure to spray with beneficial nematodes every year you supplement with manure.
For Ruth Stout (the soil cover), I have access to several acres of herbicide-free grass via a family orchard. I mow this through the year and pack it into a 8×4×4ft bin (this is fine for up to 1,000ft² of bedding cover, make it commensurately larger for larger gardens). Because I cut and pack when the grass is completely fresh and green, this starts the composting process that kills off any seeds, but the heat of the composting process also stops the process after a short while because I’m not turning over the pile to cool it off and introduce oxygen. This leaves me with lots of barely-composted grass clippings to use as an initial layer (about 60% of the total) when laying down the hay bedding. This suppresses weeds and holds in moisture much better than just hay alone.
You are likely to find green areas which are not treated with herbicide where the owners might permit you to mow and collect the grass clippings. Pretty much any green material, including heavily weed-filled areas, will suffice, as the seeds will be killed off during the composting stage. You want to avoid treated lawns because the herbicide will VERY negatively impact any vegetables you plant. In the end, you will be planting your garden through about a foot of thick hay and grass clippings; separate them by pushing them aside and plant directly into the soil. The grass and hay can also be considered as soil for bulbs and so forth, things like garlic can just be placed directly on top of the soil and re-covered. You will also have to recharge this layer every year by just putting more on top, do so in the early fall once you start shutting down your garden so you don’t disturb any beneficial insects that are bedding down for the winter.
Good luck.
Mixed zoning is what makes neighbourhoods walkable and liveable and truly desirable for a much wider range of working-class people from all backgrounds and family sizes; not just the white, upper-class, monoculture-focused, and conformance-obsessed NIMBYs.
My own property is being extensively reworked to produce a majority of our vegetables. We have already put about 185m² 2,000ft²) under direct cultivation in the back yard, and intend to wrap that garden around the entire property to the full 400m² (4.300ft²) available.
In the end, I don’t expect to have a single blade of grass on the property. It’ll all be flowers, fruiting trees and canes and bushes, and vegetables. All done in a modified Ruth Stout method, with a variation of flat-ground Hügelkultur thrown in.
Let’s just say that Bylaw is already pissed off with me, and I’m not even halfway done yet.
Spot Ads, […] says the advertisement does not violate its standards.
There are rules, and there are ethics.
Is it lawful to put up a sign like this? Sure.
Is it right? Nnnnnnope.
We should make things as financially painful for this company as possible. Scope out all of their signs, then do a blitz across their clientele, accusing them of going with an anti-Canadian advertiser. Try and make this hit the news, with those other businesses being “interviewed”. Hit them right in the pocketbook.
In order for markup to generate a correctly-formatted bullet list, it needs to see the asterisk as something other than an italics mark - so you put a space between the asterisk and the text.
So going,
*text
Makes the system think you want italicized text.
Going,
* text
Makes the system realize that you want to generate a bullet point list. All you have to do is leave one blank line before the list proper,
- and
- the
- list
- will
- be
- bulleted.
IIRC his family is already “wealthy”, just nowhere near overwhelmingly wealthy.