HelixDab2

I'm trying to install zero-rise clip-ons, because I find that more comfortable for riding at speed than sitting upright. But the instrument cluster and headlight assembly interfere with using clip-ons, so I need to replace the headlight assembly, and relocate the instrument cluster.

Photos are uploaded on Imgur, because they were too large for Lemmy.

First part:

I'm trying to figure out what the individual wires are that are going into the terminal for the headlight assembly. There are a total of five wires in a six-pin connector (with the last terminal plugged off): blue with red stripe (UR), solid yellow (Y), solid black (B), blue with white stripe (UW), and blue with yellow stripe (?UY?).

When I look at the wiring diagram in the service manual, black (B), blue/white (UW), and blue/red (UR) go to the headlamps, and black (B) and yellow (Y) go to position lights, and I don't see anything, anywhere on the diagram labeled blue/yellow.

So, first, which wire does what? I assume that two are low beams/DRLs, two are high beams, black is the neutral (?). If I trace the wiring diagram, the blue/red comes from the headlamp dip switch, so I think blue/red is the high beam, and blue/white is the low beam/DRLs? Black seems to go to everything, so I'm assuming that's neutral.

...But what the hell are the position lights, and what it the blue/yellow wire for?

Second part:

Does anyone know exactly what the connector is that I need here? It looks like it's a Sumitomo DL 090 Sealed Series 6195-0024; does that seem correct?

Third part:

If I'm trying to wire in a 7" JW Speaker LED adaptive headlamp. Since that's only one headlamp, but the existing wiring harness wants to have two high beam wires, and two low beam wires, will I want to splice another wire into the high beam and low beam on the before crimping on terminal ends? And what about that pesky position light? Will that be the red wire--front position--for the JW Speaker headlamp?

...And I still have no idea what that blue/yellow wire does.

Sorry I'm asking this without specs at hand; I'm away from my desktop at the moment.

I built a PC a few months back, and went through this long, irritating ordeal of installing Win 11 IoT Enterprise LTSC (a driver wasn't working for the video card; eventually the driver got updated, and now it's great; otherwise, MASGrave is fantastic). I have a 2Tb PCI-e drive. But. Any time I try to install an old 3.5" 7200rpm SATA drive, it won't even start. As in, nothing at all happens when I push the power button; it won't even get to BiOS, so I'm pretty sure that it's not an issue with trying to boot from a volume with no operating system.

The same hard drives work when I used them in a powered USB enclosure. They're slow, because it's over USB, but they work.

I think my power supply is 800W. My gut feeling is that my power supply is insufficient for the added power draw of a traditional hard drive. Does this sound correct?

Meet Freya, a 2yo Cornish Rex. (Not to be confused with Freyja, our 8mo old Lykoi.) We drove 12.5 hours to pick her and her step-sister up, through the tornadoes and storms that crossed Texas and Louisiana last week. We got Freya last week from a woman in Texas who had to rehome her beloved cats, Freya and Valkyrie (Valkyrie is a 2yo Sphynx that I haven't been able to get a good photo of yet). Their former caretaker felt she would be unable to take care of them because she was about to become a single mom. As in, she is due in about a month.

My partner and I don't know her exact circumstances, because it was't our business. However, this is exactly the kind of choice no one should have to make. Either it's a failure of healthcare--in Texas specifically, but also the US in general--to provide options for women, or it's a failure to provide adequate social safety networks. Regardless of why, she didn't feel able to take care of herself, her baby, AND her cats.

It was emotionally devastating to her; I can't imagine having to give up any of our cats, for any reason.

Both cats are still adjusting. Valkyrie is an outgoing, energetic, busy cat. Freya is quite a bit more fearful, but very friendly once she warms up; it took her two days before she stopped hiding and would even approach u. Now six days later, her playful and affectionate side is just starting to come out. I'm sure that they both very much miss their mom.

This brings the total number of cats we care for up to 8 again.

I've been doing basic woodworking for a while, and I want to start moving into furniture (mostly for my own enjoyment). I strongly prefer the aesthetics of craftsman/mission/prairie style (Gustav Stickley, et al.) I'm trying to make a list of the basic power tools that would be necessary/useful for that style of furniture, along with hand tools, and I'd appreciate feedback from people with more experience than I.

I already have a very basic work bench; I think that I probably need to make a work bench that I can use bench dogs on; a roubo workbench be ideal. I also definitely need to make an infeed and outfeed table for my table saw so I can work with plywood sheet more easily.

(I have a number of these, but not everything.)

Table saw (ideally a cabinet saw)

-miter gauge

-dado blade

-tenoning jig

Miter saw

Band saw (ideally 2; one that could do re-saw work, and a smaller one for cutting curves)

Jointer (ideally long bed)

Planer

Router

-tongue and groove set

Drill press (?)

Mortising machine

Random orbit sander

Finish sander

Dust collection

Dovetail jig set (for drawers)

Doweling jig (?)

Hand planes (kind of a long list here...)

Chisels

-mortising chisels

-paring chisels

-flushing chisels

Card scraper

Marking tools

-Scribe

-marking knife

Combination square

Tape measure

Calipers w/ depth gauge

Clamps

-Parallel clamps

-pipe clamps, etc.

Is there anything that I'm missing that I should be thinking about? (Quick edit - I don't have a lathe on here because I have zero interest in turning anything. I don't think that things like a belt or spindle sander, or a shaper, would really do much of anything for the style I prefer. A router table might be useful though.)

I'm a grown-ass adult, and was diagnosed as being on the spectrum quite late; Aspergers wasn't even a valid diagnosis until after I had graduated from high school.

So, haven't really had a lot of support.

Just wanted to check in with other people - what does a meltdown mean for you, in terms of communicating? When I'm feeling emotionally overwhelmed, I have words in my head, but I can get them out of my mouth. If I try to write things down, I either have the same block, or I'll write, erase, re-write, erase again, and repeat tens of times until I give up.

Win 11 IoT Enterprise LTSC, 10.0.26100, AMD Ryzen 9 7900X3D processor, 64gb RAM, ASUS ProArt X670E-Creator mboard, AMD Radeon RX 7800 XT graphics card.

All other drivers except the graphics card driver be up-to-date and working correctly; they have been updated directly from the manufacturer sites.

Every time I try to install the most recent graphics drivers (amd-software-adrenalin-edition-24.7.1-minimalsetup-240718_web), I get about 48% of the way through the installation, and then get a BSOD, with the stop code KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE. I've already tried using the AMD removal tool, rebooting in a clean environment and safe mode to reinstall, and had the same issue. Their driver installation tool gives me the option of installing PRO 24.Q2 (which appears to be for their PRO W and PRO WX series of graphics cards, rather than the RX 7000 series; it's listed as a downgrade), but gives me a 195 error when I try. I've just sent the DxDiag.txt and MSinfo32.nfo to AMD tech support.

Since I'm not running games yet, this isn't impeding much of anything. However, I am having issues with my Meta Quest 3--specifically the link software--but I don't believe that those are directly related; I think that's a problem with my home network. The software is telling me that my system doesn't meet minimum spec though, which is not good.

Any ideas?

This is being cross-posted for as much feedback as I can get.

My '12 Honda CBR600RR is nearing the end of it's life at 82,000 miles; there's minor visible scoring in the nikasil plating in the cylinders, and that's only going to get worse.

I can get the cylinders replated--assuming that the scoring is no worse than I think it is--for about $800 + the cost of shipping the block, but that would require being able to entirely rebuild the engine on my own. I'd probably want to also regrind the valve seats, replace the valves, piston heads, and def. piston rings if I did that. I've already got the cylinder head off because the valves weren't holding pressure.

I can get a replacement engine for around $1500-2500. I can replace an engine on my own, although it's a pain in the ass.

Or, I can get a new bike. But I'm not sure what makes and models for my riding style will have any better longevity than my CBR600RR has had.

My current short-list is a crashed '07- '12 CBR600RR (because I can easily swap necessary parts/bodywork, etc.), or a Yamaha YZF R6, Suzuki GSX R750, or Triumph Speed Triple 1050 (which is prone to electrical issues, and also needs some creative headlight adjustment to work with clip-on bars). Does anyone have experience with the YZF R6, GSX R750, or Speed Triple? Any issues to watch out for that might prevent any of them from making it to 100k miles without major mechanical work?

This is being cross-posted for as much feedback as I can get.

My '12 Honda CBR600RR is nearing the end of it's life at 82,000 miles; there's minor visible scoring in the nikasil plating in the cylinders, and that's only going to get worse.

I can get the cylinders replated--assuming that the scoring is no worse than I think it is--for about $800 + the cost of shipping the block, but that would require being able to entirely rebuild the engine on my own. I'd probably want to also regrind the valve seats, replace the valves, piston heads, and def. piston rings if I did that. I've already got the cylinder head off because the valves weren't holding pressure.

I can get a replacement engine for around $1500-2500. I can replace an engine on my own, although it's a pain in the ass.

Or, I can get a new bike. But I'm not sure what makes and models for my riding style will have any better longevity than my CBR600RR has had.

My current short-list is a crashed '07- '12 CBR600RR (because I can easily swap necessary parts/bodywork, etc.), or a Yamaha YZF R6, Suzuki GSX R750, or Triumph Speed Triple 1050 (which is prone to electrical issues, and also needs some creative headlight adjustment to work with clip-on bars). Does anyone have experience with the YZF R6, GSX R750, or Speed Triple? Any issues to watch out for that might prevent any of them from making it to 100k miles without major mechanical work?

This is being cross-posted for as much feedback as I can get.

My '12 Honda CBR600RR is nearing the end of it's life at 82,000 miles; there's minor visible scoring in the nikasil plating in the cylinders, and that's only going to get worse.

I can get the cylinders replated--assuming that the scoring is no worse than I think it is--for about $800 + the cost of shipping the block, but that would require being able to entirely rebuild the engine on my own. I'd probably want to also regrind the valve seats, replace the valves, piston heads, and def. piston rings if I did that. I've already got the cylinder head off because the valves weren't holding pressure.

I can get a replacement engine for around $1500-2500. I can replace an engine on my own, although it's a pain in the ass.

Or, I can get a new bike. But I'm not sure what makes and models for my riding style will have any better longevity than my CBR600RR has had.

My current short-list is a crashed '07- '12 CBR600RR (because I can easily swap necessary parts/bodywork, etc.), or a Yamaha YZF R6, Suzuki GSX R750, or Triumph Speed Triple 1050 (which is prone to electrical issues, and also needs some creative headlight adjustment to work with clip-on bars). Does anyone have experience with the YZF R6, GSX R750, or Speed Triple? Any issues to watch out for that might prevent any of them from making it to 100k miles without major mechanical work?