ShadowRam

Similar tools are sold online, pretending to help creating friendship bracelets. I was curious, so I created one for my daughter. Even not really needed it helps to keep the right order of the strings, which helps the younger ones... You should still attach the initial end of the strings somewhere so you can give some tension on the strings... Due to the thread this required 0.2mm when I printed it... Have fun!

I had an old USB Oscilloscope (StingRay), it's 20+ years old now.

Bought a OWON HDS242 with the hope that I could view some stuff on it's screen, but still hook it up via USB to the computer and do some voltage data logging. It doesn't seem to work like I would like it to.

So I've learned what I want is a Data Logger and not an Oscilloscope.

Can anyone recommend a good USB Data Logger that won't break the bank?

Decent bit ADC, and something that can get down to the 1us.

Doesn't need to be high voltage.

Cheers,

It helps categorise, manage, and present content effectively, commonly found in applications. About 130mm in width x 30mm in height. An add-on is an optional component, feature, or extension that can be integrated into an existing system. More designs on Printables: https://www.printables.com/@ChrisTech Change Log: 7 November 2023 Create an extension part to link with another partition. 15 November 2023 Fine-tuned the design's tolerance.

Find out everything you need to know about the battery box on my blog: https://nerd-corner.com/3d-printed-battery-container-for-cr2032/ or https://nerd-corner.com/de/3d-gedruckter-batteriebehaelter-fuer-cr2032/

Redesign of a simple micro SD card organizer, based on the original MicroSD Card holder by FritoBandito. Created a new model in Autodesk Fusion 360. Redesigned the slots for easier card removal. Print with 0.2mm layer height

This is a wall mount I designed and made for the Meta Quest 3 VR Headset; I also made a wall mounts for the Quest 1 and 2 when they were released, (see other designs) and was hoping to have this wall mount compatible with the Quest 1 and 2, but the design of the Quest 3 prohibits that. I have added three new STL files to make printing easier, one is a top part, and the other a bottom part, the other is a skinny top to fit on tiny printer bed; see in print section below. Like my other Quest wall mounts, this works well, but please be gentle with it as any damage to your headset is on you. I designed this to mount to a wall STUD with sheet rock / dry wall screws; (You can use on Wood piece or wall with the correct anchors MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT SCREW INTO A CABLE OR PIPE OF SOME KIND. IF YOU ARE NOT 100 PERCENT SURE WHAT TO DO, GET HELP INSTALLING THIS The hook on the bottom is hold the USB C cable when the unit is not being charged. Also, please checkout and subscribe to my youtube channel, youtube.com/10p6 **** I have changed the license agreement for this model to allow remixes and sales.. The rules: 1 - Keep the 10p6 Logo (if you do not like it, do not do a remix), 2 - DO NOT USE THE META LOGO AT ALL (That is a registered trademark and I do not want it on my models / remixes.) 3 - Make sure you list and link your remix to this model here on Thingiverse and nowhere else; (This is my model you are altering, not a model you are creating.) 4 - If I find my model files or remixes of it on any other site I will have them removed. I have also allowed my model to be 'Printed' and sold online. Note that credit for any sale listing must show the model was designed by 10P6 and must not be made to look like you designed it. You are responsible for the quality of the prints, and any design changes made as I know my model works perfectly. DO NOT REMOVE THE 10P6 LOGO. THESE MODIFIED LICENSES DO NOT ALLOW FOR THE ELECTRONIC DESIGN FILE/s, OR REMIXES TO BE SOLD OR SHARED ON ANY SITES OTHER THAN THINGIVERSE. MY PHYSICALLY PRINTED MODEL AND YOUR REMIXES CAN BE SOLD ON OTHER SITES, HOWEVER DO NOT SELL ANY MODELS / REMIXES EITHER DIGITAL OR PRINTED ON CULTS3D AS THE OWNER THINKS COPYRIGHT THEFT IS OK WHICH IT IS NOT. ****

This is an automatically latching lock which is powered by a Micro Servo SG90 9G. This makes it easy and inexpensive to interface to most microcontrollers such as Arduino. It is designed to engage with a pin of 3mm to 4mm diameter (not part of this model). When the pin enters the slot, it causes the mechanism to latch. To unlock it, the servo is driven through a range of 45 degrees, which causes the lock to release. The mechanism is designed to have a large mechanical advantage, so it should be able to cope with quite a bit of load without stalling the servo motor. We are approaching Halloween as I write this, so perhaps you could use it to drop giant spiders on unsuspecting guests :) You will also need: 2x 3mm x 15mm brass shaft (or similar) 2x M3 x 15mm screws to secure the housing 2x small springs Grease Use a drill to clean up the holes in the moving parts, so that they rotate very freely on the shafts. File or sand the parts to ensure they are smooth, and apply grease before assembly. Test the range of motion of the servo before assembly. You can actually test the complete mechanism is working well without the servo fitted. Push a screwdriver into the slot to make it latch, then use your fingertip to actuate the trigger. When you are confident that is operating smoothly, connect the servo to your Arduino (or whatever) to find its "rest" or "zero" position, then fit the servo horn in the correct orientation, then mount the servo and test in situ. I've attached a picture showing a view of the upper part of the housing viewed from below to show the proper orientation of the servo horn when the servo is at its "rest" or "zero" position. When the servo is driven through 45 degrees, it pushes against the "trigger" (the red part) causing the latch to release. Sample Arduino code is included (example.ino), showing how to drive the servo.

This is the resculpted Chestburster, but I have added alot more detail to the model, new gums etc, should print much better than the original. (original in grey on the left in picture#1) this time, plus the base to it can be attached to your chest easily.

I was just playing around with printable trapezoidal threads and before I realized it, I had designed a large machine vise… The vise has a clamping range of 120x120mm. It is good for circuit boards because plastic is non-conductive. Standard trapezoidal threads (30° thread angle ) or ACME threads (29° thread angle) are very difficult to print in an upright position. The overhangs are not supported by the thread geometry. Therefore my thread has a thread angle of 42°. This can be printed upright at 0.12 layer height without using supports. Print all threaded parts in an upright position with a layer height of 0.12mm or smaller. All other parts can be printed with 0.2mm or bigger layers. Support is needed for the Slider and the Jaws. For the Base support is optional but recommended. The other parts do not need supports. I am using 4 walls, 5 tops, 4 bottoms and 10% gyroid infill. See my 3mf file for more details and change it to your needs. The 3mf file is for Bambu Lab P1/X1 printer but shows the orientation of the parts. Just to mention it - this is a large vice. It needs more than 0.5kg filament. The gap between the parts is 0.25mm for all movable elements. The pins have a smaller clearance (0.15mm) as those are a press-fit. If necessary they can be hammered in position. I was using some very cheap filaments that had large tolerances in diameter. In that case you might need to rework the holes for the pins with a drill (Ø4mm) and sand the sliding surfaces evenly. This should not be necessary if you use quality filament. For the sliding surfaces and the thread I am applying candle wax as surface treatment (just rub it on). Then you have a nice and smooth vice action.

Guide for lubricating motorcycle chains. Clips onto grease bomb Maximum chain width: 26mm Guide pour graisser les chaines de motos. Se clipse sur les bombes de graisse aerosol Largeur maximum de la chaine : 26mm Je peux faire d'autres versions plus larges ou plus étroites si besoin.

A simple spring loaded third hand for soldering wires

Various knobs for cylinder head screws with M3/M4/M6 or M8 thread. For explanation, I have designed two different versions. The standard version has a hexagon socket integrated in the knob. The screw is inserted or glued onto this, whereby the thread length of the screw remains the same. The "thread" - version is for high stress when turning with a very large torque. For this purpose, the screw is screwed into the knob and glued in place. This shortens the screw by approx. 5 mm, but the connection is extremely strong and resilient.