Well that is one thing I'll never have. My appendix got removed years ago.
Do you mean the steam deck?
I just use tweezers and a blue flame lighter. Heat it for 5 seconds then put it in the plastic. Then use the back of the tweezers as a flat surface to push it all the way in and level it.
This worked well so far and I really don't see the need for a special soldering iron bit or a press like this.
Was zum Teufel?
Would you like to know more?
Louis van Gaal has entered the chat.
I got an Orbiter 1.5 extruder and have been quite happy about it since. These days you'd be better off getting an Orbiter 2. As for the toolhead, there should be Ender 5 compatible mounts available on Printables or Thingiverse, if not you could design your own.
Creality also has its own direct drive, the Sprite Pro. That may be worth looking in to as well.
You can import a STEP model of both the Ender 5 and whatever mod you want to make to it and model your toolhead around it, that is what I did with the Mercury One project.
It's worth the effort imo.
Bells frog big cherries jingle bells ham and cheese SEPHIROTH!
Swords in my knees... ...Ed peed on this!
Duolingo is so stupidly annoying these days. It has gotten so much worse compared to a few years ago.
Constant bugging, too many popups that are almost as bad as Microsoft products. I want to learn a goddamn language not jump through a hundred hoops every single time.
Not to mention that it all boils down to a guessing game. Some questions have multiple answers and unless you choose that specific one that DuoLingo had in mind it counts as wrong. It also won't tell you why you guessed wrong.
Are there better apps these days?
This is a WIP and at this point don't know if it's going to be successful or not. I'm currently building it. The idea is to use the Mercury One build but modify it so that it uses 10mm rods on the X axis instead of an aluminium extrusion with an MGN12 rail. I have a set of these rods on hand and want to use the MGN12 rail on a DIY CNC instead. These rods seem good enough for a 3D printer and I don't want to waste them.
I have decided to modify the Mercury One so that it has a different X assembly and a completely custom toolhead that houses the stock Ender5 hotend or a MicroSwiss hotend coupled with an Orbiter 1.5 extruder. Later I'll make a different toolhead for a better hotend but for now the MicroSwiss is good enough.
The red parts are original MercuryOne parts, the green ones are the ones I designed. I haven't bothered with rounding or chamfering yet. I have also imported some things from GrabCAD such as the BLtouch, hotend and fans.
This is quite the Frankenstein creation and I wonder, what am I supposed to call it? It barely resembles an Ender5 at this point, only the frame does.
I feel a bit bad for still using Gdrive but here's the FreeCAD file. I only put things in Gdrive that I want to share publicly so idc if they spy on me. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WFskq_OpdML4qeyOsKfkcaarW1QUJOB5/view?usp=sharing
This is for older car models that do not have built-in navigation or bad navigation. My car is old enough to have a cassette player.
This model is made for a Toyota Yaris from 2001 and the phone inside is an S21 Ultra that would otherwise have been sitting in a drawer.
I have sacrificed the original sunvisor to get the swivel part out and modeled a new sunvisor around it. Since this car is really old it's okay to make these modifications.
So far the driving experience has improved a lot, it is a pretty decent location for a navigation system since you can focus on driving much more easily than having to look down and to the right.
The models and FreeCAD design file may be found here:
https://www.printables.com/model/1256013-toyota-yaris-sun-visor-with-navigation-phone
Hi there
The purpose of this schematic is to control a DC motor that runs at 8V max. That is why I chose 4 N-channel mosfets in the H bridge. P-channels would not fully activate at voltages above -10Vgs but the N-channels can handle 18V at the gate.
The 5v switches represent an Arduino's digital output pins. One to turn forward, one for reverse. To prevent a failure scenario where both pins are HIGH I added a transistor that prevents current from flowing through the optocoupler on the second half bridge.
Does this circuit make sense? I'm not an electronics engineer, just a hobbyist and have doubts about how effective the gate driving circuit is of the mosfets.
Thanks!
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Can't complain about that one!