AliasAKA

Hi everyone, I am trying to repurpose a Ryzen 1700 system for a home server, but not exactly sure what the best solution for my needs is, and how to find additional resources.

More context, I have 4 8th hdds (wd blue drives; would’ve preferred reds but, alas). I intended to run these in raid10, but open to other ideas also. These are connected via sata directly to Mobo. I’d like to selfhost a nice NAS stack, to include: my own office 365 / google docs thing, file storage, and storage and playback of music and video files. I’d like to run jellyfin and a myriad of ‘arr things. Please send any and all suggestions. Should all of these run on a single virtual machine?

Alongside this, probably in a separate virtual machine, I’d like to run a home assistant instance with some mild transcoding (I think) going on in regards to some cameras I have around the house.

I also think I’d run tail scale to vpn back in?

What I’ve researched so far is proxmox and casaos (lightly). Casaos is alluring mostly because it seems like an easy on ramp, with lots of visual configuration. I enjoy CLI config, but visual configs are easier to discover settings and options that might not occur to me. I’d ideally favor stability here, as I like to tinker, but don’t have a huge amount of time for it.

Am I on the right track with all this? Any pitfalls? Any must have self hosted software I should be sure to include? Should I set up the storage pool in proxmox first as raid10? Any general advice? Words of encouragement? I’ll take it all.

Apologies if this is the wrong forum — if so, please feel free to delete (and direct me hopefully to a more appropriate locale).

Edit: forgot to mention, system also has a slower ssd boot drive, and a 1070 I plan to pass thru as needed.

TLDR: is the buzzing in linked video normal / okay / expected? If not, is there a way to fix it?

I’ve just been putting my Creality K1 through it’s paces, and after using up all the hyper PLA that came with the unit, started printing some inland black basic PLA. Since then, I’ve noticed some buzzing sounds on either pure x axis or pure y axis moves. Video attached showcasing it. It doesn’t seem to create any buzzing on infill moves or perimeters that have a radius. Any straight lines though seem to cause the buzzing. Prints seem okay (though inout shaper seems off for sure looking at corners). I don’t remember it happening with the hyper PLA which I printed at the same speed (I am printing the black inland at higher temp to compensate for reduced flow).

Thanks for any help or feedback! Enjoying the community on Lemmy here so far :)

My Creality K1 bed is actually in pretty good shape (max deviation of 0.7mm left to right, 0.1mm back to front), but I recognize that many folks might have beds that are off as much as 1.5 or more mm. The K1 has 3 lead screws, but not proper 3 point leveling (maybe someone will create a daughter board and a 3 point conversion kit in the future, after Creality open sources their firmware for the K1 series -- anyone out there that does this, I'd probably throw some small amount of money at you).

As far as I understand it, there are currently two methods to properly tram your bed:

1. Follow the creality way, which is essentially immobilize the bed with shipping screws and retension the belt that synchronizes the 3 Z screws. To do this, you must turn the printer on it's side, remove the bottom panel, and fight the tensioner. Reports are mixed luck doing this.

2. Skip teeth. You still have to do the bottom removal, but instead of completely removing the belt and detensioning, you slip the teeth on the belt drive (I think this is something like 0.4mm for each slipped tooth). There is less information about this, but there's a video in Chinese showing someone doing it. Perhaps a more helpful guide would democratize this more, and it might have more success than 1?

My question is: there are grub screws on the 3 lead screws, on the top side, accessible from the printer cabinet -- would it be possible to loosen the grub screws, so the z rod in that position spins freely, turn that z rod just slightly, then reseat the grub screw? That would seem a lot easier to relevel the bed, than doing either of the above procedures. Am I missing something?