Climbing

Saw Stasa Gejo’s IG post. It’s a long post. At first she’s just lamenting her poor performance and it’s partially due to schedule. Back to back comps can’t feel great. But later on she also says she felt uncomfortable and how unwelcoming the venue is.

In the comments it seems Natalia Grossman and Oceana Mackenzie (among others) agree, although not sure on which points. I don’t know what to say about the venue issue, but it’s unfortunate that the competitors seem to not get what they need.

I do think it’s strange how packed the schedule is right now. And I’m a somewhat new fan to comp climbing so I don’t know why that is. Is it for Olympics qualy or the world champs? Or just something else? There’s a comment saying “politics always wins” so I’m not sure if there are other issues IFSC is trying to push with these comps.

I've recently picked up climbing as a hobby (3 weeks ago) and I'm struggling to do the majority of the V3s that I attempt. I'm able to do V1s and V2s pretty easily, but there are specific techniques or tricks in V3s that I guess I haven't picked up yet (e.g. crimping, heel hooks, dynos).

Do you folks have any suggestions or routines on how to improve and progress? How was your first experience with climbing?

Edit: Thanks a ton for the advice! It seems I've been spoiled by my progression from v0-v2, so I was expecting v3 to take a similar amount of time. It seems that I'll need to think a lot more about these problems!

I started bouldering late last year and have plateaued at around a V4 level. I feel like my biggest weakness by far is my finger strength, so I’m thinking of starting hangboarding to work on that.

I’m not sure where to start though, I feel like I already tax my fingers when climbing so I don’t want to go overboard and injure myself.

Got lead certified recently, but I pretty much drop a grade when climbing lead - I'm not as confident and I overgrip.

I've done lead falls, I know how to do 'em well, and yet... as someone who's done top rope for many years, it's scary not feeling the tension (however small) of a rope pulling your harness up.

This is some gnarly fall as a reminder for every Grigri user not to block the mechanism and to keep the brake hand down and on the rope at all times.

I was surprised to see someone sling a tree root and two pieces on the same tree. The not pictured 3rd anchor was solid in rock. What are your thoughts?

Really well done video of an amazing bouldering feat

A good recent video from Hard is Easy on the GriGri belay device

Anyone watching the Prague Bouldering WC?